From Appropriation to Appreciation: Elevating Artisans in Contemporary Design

In an era of increasing global interconnectedness, the design world stands at a crucial crossroads. As we commemorate Indigenous Day, it’s an opportune moment to reflect on the vital role that local artisans and craftspeople play in shaping contemporary design. The design industry is awakening to the immense value of global craftsmanship, recognizing that true innovation often lies in tradition.

This article delves into the evolving landscape of contemporary crafts, examining the critical issue of recognition and appreciation for the craftspeople in Western design contexts. We explore how collaboration between designers and artisans is shaping aesthetics and more importantly, addressing longstanding inequities and appropriation happening in the industry. From the rising popularity of artisanal crafts to the imperative of fair compensation, from the power of conscious consumerism to the richness of cross-cultural exchange, we’ll unpack the multifaceted nature of this design revolution.

The Shifting Paradigm

For too long, the narrative of design has been dominated by Western voices, often at the expense of the rich traditions and skills of artisans from around the world. We’ve seen designers and brands appropriate motifs, techniques, and forms from non-Western cultures without proper credit, acknowledgment, or compensation. This practice, reminiscent of colonial-era exploitation, has rightly faced criticism and calls for change.

However, it’s heartening to see a growing shift in our industry. More and more initiatives are making concerted efforts to collaborate meaningfully with artisans from diverse cultural backgrounds, recontextualizing their rich histories and crafts traditions with respect. An example of that is ‘co/fab‘, a collective by co/rizom. Working as an incubator from seeking grants to product development, they connect designers, artisans, and business professionals dedicated to empowering communities through design-based innovation of traditional crafts. As an important pillar in this initiative, Adorno is proud the represent the collective, raising awareness about the craft cultures and artisans they support.

The Hazel Wave lights, a collaboration between artisan Cvetka Grbec and designer Darja Malesic, utilizing a rare craft practiced by a small number of Slovenian artisans. From an early age, Cvetka admired the work of her neighbor who was a basket-maker. Later she decided to specialize in this weaving technique, making pieces from various materials, including hazel, willow, and corn husk.

The Value of Craftsmanship

The rising popularity of rustic styles and the emphasis on natural materials have created a significant market for indigenous crafts. But this shift goes beyond aesthetics. There’s a deeper appreciation emerging for the handmade qualities and the stories behind each piece. Design is evolving from a purely visual practice to one that values provenance and process.

At Adorno, we’ve made it our mission to credit the artisans we work with. We believe in giving them the recognition they deserve for their contributions. This approach starts with studios sharing this mission, willing to document their processes, and sharing some of the spotlight with the artisans. Studio ANDEAN is a prime example of that. As a practice dedicated to highlighting Ecuador’s iconography and material culture, they are actively putting their artisans at the forefront as true talents as seen in the videos below.

The Richness of Collaboration

This new approach to design, one that respects and celebrates craftspeople, is not only for ethical reasons – it increases creativity by setting boundaries for what’s possible, ultimately leading to more concise concepts using sustainable methods. When designers engage meaningfully with artisans, they gain access to a vast reservoir of knowledge that can transform, and often simplify, their work. These collaborations involve an exchange of cultural values, stories, and unique perspectives that shift how we approach design.

Victor Clopotar, the maker of the “Inner side of the shape” collection designed by Radu Abraham, is another artisan from the co/fab collective. He was born into a family of Căldărari, a Roma community in Brăteiu, Transylvania with a centuries-old history in metal crafts – copper, silver, and brass. He followed the footsteps of his ancestors and trained as a copper-smith. There used to be 200 Roma copper-smiths in his village, but today there are only six left. Working with copper is a real craft challenge, and Victor is one of the few people in the world able to create something elliptical or asymmetrical.

The Imperative of Fair Pay

Although appreciation and collaboration are key factors, fair pay is central to this new paradigm. Without ensuring that craftspeople are compensated justly for their labor, skills, and intellectual property, we risk perpetuating the very exploitative practices we seek to overcome. At Adorno, we’re committed to working with studios that pay their artisans well. We uphold reasonable price points to channel more resources to the makers. Fair pay and support structures are essential to building equal partnerships between designers and craftspeople, ensuring that everyone benefits from the collaboration.

More and more, studios are elevating the artisans to be seen as integral members of their team who work with them, rather than someone who works for them. One example is the weaver Alberto Cruz from Tequisquiapan, Querétaro who joined Lørdag & Søndag about two years ago. “His amazing weaving techniques and work ethic have made him a pleasure to work with. We are super proud to have Alberto on our team” says Salvador Compañ, co-founder of the studio.

The Power of the Conscious Consumer

In this evolving landscape of design, the role of the consumer cannot be overstated. As we in the industry strive to create more ethical and culturally rich designs, it is the discerning consumer who ultimately drives change through their choices and demands.

Today’s consumers are more informed and conscientious than ever before. They’re not just looking for aesthetically pleasing objects; they’re seeking products with meaning, history, and positive impact. This shift in consumer behavior is pushing the entire industry towards greater transparency and ethical practices. By choosing to invest in pieces that honor global craftsmanship and fair compensation, consumers are voting with their wallets for a more equitable design world. They’re demanding to know the stories behind the products they buy – who made them, under what conditions, and how the makers benefit.

This consumer-driven accountability is invaluable. It encourages designers and brands to delve deeper into their supply chains, forge meaningful partnerships with artisans, and share the rich narratives behind each piece. At Adorno, we’ve seen firsthand how our customers’ interest in the provenance of our pieces has pushed us to forge even stronger relationships with our artisan partners and to tell their stories more compellingly. Moreover, conscious consumers are becoming more willing to pay a premium for products that align with their values. This willingness is crucial in supporting fair pay for artisans and investing in sustainable practices and local production. It creates a virtuous cycle where ethical production is rewarded, encouraging more designers and brands to adopt similar practices.

Educating and engaging consumers will be key to furthering this positive change. By sharing the stories of our artisan partners through engaging content, detailing our ethical practices, and being transparent about our processes, we can help consumers make informed choices that support global craftsmanship and fair design practices.

Looking Ahead

As we move forward, we believe our industry has an opportunity—and a responsibility—to redefine what global design means. It’s not about appropriation or exploitation. It’s about genuine collaboration, mutual respect, and shared creativity. By placing craftspeople at the forefront, valuing their skills and traditions, and ensuring they are fairly compensated, we can create a landscape that is beautiful, non-homogenous, ethical, and culturally rich. And by engaging consumers in this journey, we can create a market that demands and supports these practices.

This is the future of design that we at Adorno are committed to building—a future where creativity knows no borders, where every artisan’s voice is heard and valued, and where consumers play an active role in shaping a more ethical and diverse design landscape. Together, we can create a world where great design goes hand in hand with social responsibility and cultural appreciation.

Shop our selection of pieces preserving crafts culture